Biyang PH-10 Phase Adjustment

I recently purchased a Biyang PH-10 Phase Pro on eBay. I noticed that in eBay's stock photo of this pedal, SPEED is spelled SEEPED (seriously), so I wasn't sure what to expect. This one's not too bad.

The PH-10, like MXR's M-101 Phase 90 (the natural comparison in this price range), did not sound that great out of the box. I took it apart to see if there was an easily accessible trimpot inside, and there was indeed.

The stock sound was over-pronounced for me. I made careful note of the stock position of the trimpot screw and turned it little by little until it sounded good to me. You may end up with different results if you try this, but I ended up about 270 degrees counter-clockwise from the original position (see pic below). The pedal now sounds much creamier. If I don't sell it first, I will a/b it with an Custom Shop Phase 90 and a 74 Script Phase 90. One thing at a time, though.

The yellow dot indicates the stock (top) and adjusted (bottom) position of that end of the slot.

Ibanez TS-10 Replacement Switch

I recently bought an Ibanez TS-10 Tube Screamer with a non-functioning switch, but could not find an exact replacement. I bought a Cherry MX1A-11NN for 98 cents at Small Bear Electronics: http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=588. The listing warns that the switch "fits the opening, [but] needs a piece of wood glued to the actuating lever to press its smaller shaft." That sounded sloppy, so I hoped to find a different fix.

I installed the switch with no problems, and saw that it was indeed too short. I tried small rubber caps (including two that I pulled from the end of bungee cords). They worked, but didn't look good. Cutting them straighter would have helped. The sizes I tried fell off and would have needed glue anyway.

I grabbed two pieces of shrink tubing -- one about 4mm and one about 5mm, give or take a mm. I placed the 4mm tube on the actuator, which was a tight fit, but not a struggle. The 5mm fit over the smaller one no problem. I cut the length to about 8mm and very, very briefly heated them with a lighter, just enough to taper the end and firm them up a bit. Here is the result, which looks good and works perfectly.  Hope this has helped someone. I'd be happy to hear about other fixes for this switch.